Tenerife Canarian

Canarian cooking is its own thing rather than a regional variant of Spanish. The staples are papas arrugadas, small potatoes boiled in heavily salted water until the skins wrinkle, served with a red mojo built on paprika and a green one on coriander. Gofio, toasted grain flour, turns up in soups, desserts and as a thickener. Rabbit in salmorejo, ropa vieja and sancocho fill out the main courses, and goat cheese appears at almost every table.

The best of it is in the north and the hill villages rather than the resorts. The guachinche is the format worth seeking out: a family room attached to a small vineyard, pouring its own wine with a menu of four or five dishes.