Tenerife Seafood

Tenerife eats what the Atlantic gives it, and the list is different from the Mediterranean one. Vieja, the parrotfish that is the island's own favourite, comes grilled whole with potatoes and mojo. Cherne, sama, bocinegro and the small fried chopitos fill the rest of the board, and limpets grilled with garlic are a genuinely local starter.

The places to eat it are the working harbours rather than the promenades: the fish comes off the boat a few metres away and is priced by the kilo at the counter. Ask what landed that morning instead of ordering from the printed card, and expect it whole rather than filleted.